CHASING WATERFALLS
Middle aged men should have better things to do…..
We’re extremely blessed here in South Wales when it comes to landscape photography. We have the Brecon Beacons National Park, the Glamorgan Heritage Coast and the fabulous Gower Peninsula all within reasonable travel distance. For anyone like me who’s happy to travel a bit further we have the delights of the Pembrokeshire coast a couple of hours away.
Blessed indeed……
Less than an hour away from where I live is another gem that I haven’t included in the list above because it’s worthy of a separate discussion.
Waterfall Country, as it’s known here, is located on the south-westerly edge of the Brecon Beacons National Park Here the rivers Mellte, Hepste, Pyrddin and Nedd-fechan wind their way down deep, tree-lined gorges, over a series of dramatic waterfalls, before joining to form the River Neath. This area is of international importance and it has been designated as a Special Area of Conservation (SAC) and a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI). There’s a main concentration of spectacular waterfalls around the villages of Pontneddfechan and Ystradfellte near Neath. Here you can easily access some of the most breath-taking falls you’re ever likely to see and although a careful approach is needed in wet weather, many of the walks can be enjoyed by anyone with a reasonable level of fitness. The area receives over 160,000 visitors each year.
My favourite walk, the “Four Waterfalls Walk”, can become very popular at peak times. It generally begins at either Gwaun Hepste or Cwm Porth car parks and at around 7.5 km is a good stretch of the legs. I prefer to access the walk from the small car park at Comin Y Rhos which brings you very quickly to Sgwd Uchaf Clun Gwyn (upper fall of the white meadow) and it’s not a bad opening act ! Then it’s a stroll up the valley to cross the Afon Hepste via the footbridge, keeping a close eye for trolls !! Once you’ve climbed out of the valley you follow the eastern bank to the next beauty, Sgwd Isaf Clun Gwyn (lower fall of the white meadow) and although not easily accessible, the views from above are spectacular.
A little further on you come to Sgwd Panwr (fall of the fuller), one of my favourites as it can be photographed from a number of different angles and the bonus is that it’s one of the lesser visited falls. The reason for this is it’s proximity to the star of the show Sgwd Yr Eira.
Sgwd Yr Eira (fall of the snow) is one of the most spectacular falls you’re ever likely to see. After a few days of rain (not uncommon here !) the volume of water crashing 50ft over the cliff edge creates a noise you can hear from hundreds of meters away. It’s one of the few falls here that you can walk behind if you’re brave enough. Make sure you’re wearing waterproofs though as a soaking is on the cards. I never tire of visiting this location but it’s definitely at it’s best in Autumn when the colours in the surrounding woodland add something extra to this special scene. For me, the best composition is when you’re standing in the river to catch to full force of the water in a long exposure image. A good pair of wellies are definitely needed for this. The climb back out of the valley is a bit of a pull but the steps are well maintained and it’s so worth it. You soon get your breath back if the bench at the top has space for you to sit and enjoy a well earned coffee!
I’ve frequently spent whole days doing this and other walks around here. The geology fascinates me and if you look closely enough you’ll see relics of South Wales’ industrial history. Tough terrain to work in but then they made ‘em tough in those days. It’s not just about man made relics here though. The wildlife is abundant, especially the feathered kind, and I’m often found watching dippers, tree keepers and nuthatches as they go about their business. What a fantastic way to spend a day !
Of course the popularity of Waterfall Country has its downside. People are inclined to take chances here and the Brecon Beacons Mountain rescue team are regularly called to evacuate someone who’s slipped and broken a leg through falling. Parking is also a problem, particularly at weekend and although there are plenty of car parks they soon fill up and inconsiderate roadside parking becomes a major issue. Imagine if you’re waiting for mountain rescue and they can’t get through because you’ve blocked a path with a selfish act. Oh the irony !! Erosion is another issue and the paths can become a bit sketchy during prolonged spells of rain but the National Park does a fantastic job of maintaining this huge area of land.
But if you wear appropriate outdoor clothing and footwear, act sensibly and don’t take risks, this is a playground that you, like me, can enjoy time after time. I haven’t got space here to cover a number of the other waterfall locations I visit ( like the falls from a Batman movie, and a hidden fall that requires some proper climbing ) but maybe that’s for a future blog.
In the meantime, I’ll continue chasing waterfalls.
