A HARD NIGHT’S DAY
(WITH APOLOGIES TO LENNON AND McCARTNEY)
When your alarm goes off at half past midnight, it either means you’re catching an early holiday flight or (in my case) you have somewhere else special to be. It’s the start of Milky Way core season and this will be my first astrophotography session of 2022.
An hour later and I’m on the M4 heading to the Gower Peninsula. It’s surprisingly busy for this time of night at midweek. Can’t these people sleep?
It’s a bit of a trek to the beach from the car park but by 03:00 I’ve set up and I’m letting my eyes adjust to the dark. I’ve got the place to myself which means a free hand in choosing where to shoot from. The galactic core rises at around 03:15 and high tide is at 04:00 so I’ve got time to spare.
While I wait for the main event I spend some time looking at the Northern night sky. It’s beautiful, the greatest show on earth, requires no subscription to view, and is totally addictive. I always start by finding The Plough and tracking across to Polaris. I can now make out Cassiopeia and then take my final view of The Winter Circle before it disappears from our night skies for another eight months.
Back to the reason I’m here. It’s a beautiful late March night with clear skies (as forecast), no breeze, and the temperature is bearable at around 5C but it’s extremely humid. Within a few minutes I can feel dew forming on my jacket. I fire off a few test shots to get my composition right and then make exposure and focus adjustments. I’m facing South East, looking at the famous Three Cliffs where I can see the remains of the recent Sahara dust clouds in the sky. The Core should appear any time now and I need to get a lens warmer on to prevent the damp air fogging the front element.
Oh no ! Disaster - I’ve left the lens warmers back at home !! ^*#@%$ !!
I’m glad no-one’s listening as I’ve just turned the air blue as I realise that there’s little chance of any decent images tonight. What a plonker ! I try and grab a few images by wiping the lens after each shot but it’s a losing battle and the Core hasn’t appeared yet. The incoming tide forces me to move further up the beach and I set up again but my heart’s not in it now and the new composition isn’t working as well as my first set up. Back at the car it’s nearly 05:00 and the first few signs of the new day are showing in the sky. The Vikings called it the Wolf Light due its grey hue. I have a coffee and reflect on lessons learned tonight. That damp air has soaked most of my kit, so instead of feeling sorry for myself I get everything dry before putting it away for the journey home.
A thought occurs (I know I’m stretching credibility here but bear with me). Damp air early in the morning can often result in low lying mist in the South Wales valleys and checking the weather apps on my ‘phone confirms that my hunch could be right. There’s a location I’ve been planning to visit for some time when there’s mist around, so instead of heading home I set off in the opposite direction.
There’s an ancient oak woodland clinging to the side of a South Wales mountain. It’s a perfect place to be on a foggy day. It’s filled with twisted, gnarly, moss-covered Sessile Oaks and is very popular with photographers in this part of the world. You can find lots of images on social media taken here but the bizarre thing is nobody ever names the location in their posts. Now there could be a couple of reasons for this - maybe they don’t want the location to get too busy or they merely want to protect the ancient, precious environment found there. Or perhaps they just want the place to themselves ! In any case, it’s taken me a while to discover the actual location so I’m hoping my research pays off.
Nearly two hours later I’ve arrived and I’m stumbling up the mountain in thick fog, which isn’t ideal for a first visit as I’m not familiar with the place. Not for the first time I’m grateful for the O.S. app on my mobile as it’s once more keeping me on the right heading. The fog’s so thick I’ve probably passed the wood a couple of times so I stop for a coffee and check my bearings. If I’m honest I’m tired now and need some food, as by my calculation it’s near my lunch time after such an early start. As luck would have it there’s an out of date Tunnock’s Caramel bar in my back pack, I’m only around ten minutes away and the fog doesn’t look like lifting despite a breeze picking up.
I’m soon immersed in this special place. It’s everything it promised to be and I’m feeling more than a bit pleased with myself. The fog is thick enough to penetrate well into the woods so the choice of compositions is plentiful. I just need to do it justice. Two hours fly by and I’m really happy with my images so I think it’s time to try and find my way back to the car. There’s absolutely no point in trying to rely on your sense of direction in thick fog. You’ll be lost before you know it and I’ve put too many miles in the legs today to mess about. I eventually emerge back on to the single track road half mile from the car and it’s all uphill ! Ah well. I’ve learned an enormous amount over the last few hours so I’ve no right to complain.
I’m soon at the car and heading home with mixed feelings. I’m fairly meticulous in planning and organising a shoot but haven’t done astrophotography for a few months and that missing piece of kit was a show stopper so I need to give myself a talking to. It hasn’t ended too badly though. A self inflicted photography failure has been rescued by a last minute change of plan, meaning the night/day hasn’t been a complete disaster. But I won’t make the same mistake again. On reflection, I’m confident of a few decent images and can’t wait to see them on the computer. Not today though. I need food and then some sleep.
For the record, I arrived home 11 hours after setting out and walked almost 8 miles over both locations.
Easy this photography lark ain’t it? Schoolboy errors aside……..
DUDLEY, EUNICE, FRANKLIN AND GLADYS TOO……
I’m selfish.
There, I’ve said it. Not in all things, you understand. Not in many to be honest, but when it comes to my favourite woodland locations it’s a different story.
Four successive storms in mid-February have irrevocably altered a good chunk of forestry and woodland here in South Wales. The damage left is heartbreaking to see.
I visited five or six locations once the storms had subsided and they’ve all changed. Some of my favourite scenes are gone forever. I’ll never photograph them again. Perspective needed here I guess, because in the scheme of things it was ever thus (I’m old enough to remember the Great Storm of 1987). When viewed against the background of the invasion of Ukraine, and the suffering those poor people are going through, it’s especially hard to catastrophise.
Nonetheless, there’s a sense of personal loss. I’ve been visiting most of the damaged sites for over 10 years. They were familiar and I’ve watched many of them mature into places that people enjoyed spending time in. Old growth woodland is in short supply in the UK and faces increasing threats (as I documented in my December blog). Understanding what these locations looked like at different times of the year and in different weather conditions has been a tremendous learning experience for me both as a photographer but also as someone who loves spending time in nature.
I completely get that these beautiful woodlands weren’t put there for me alone. I’m not even the only photographer that visits some of them. Factor in the number of people who regularly walk their dogs there, kids who want to play there, and various other visitors, then it’s clear that human interaction with these spaces is plentiful. Long may it continue. Many of them probably don’t even notice some of the more secluded spots that have disappeared. So, for a change, humans haven’t caused the destruction and nature has a wonderful way of repairing itself. I wouldn’t mind betting the process is already well under way.
There are benefits that far outweigh this photographer’s sulk. As part of the woodland life cycle, fallen trees have a very important role to play. Wood decomposition is one of woodland’s most important recycling processes and is just one part of a tree’s lifecycle. Decaying wood provides nutrients for fungi, habitat for insects and a food store for insect-eating birds. The reservoir of nutrients held by dead and decaying trees is slowly released into the woodland floor to be reused by living trees and other plants. The cycle continues and I’m grateful that the worst of the storms happened prior to nesting season.
So we start again. Time to move on, find new sites and learn to understand their potential. Hardly a chore is it !
We’ve hopefully seen the last of Winter’s storms and our thoughts can begin to turn to brighter, warmer days.
We’re rapidly approaching the Spring or vernal equinox (March 20th), an important astrological event that signifies the start of the new season. This event has long been celebrated in the northern hemisphere as a time of rebirth and is a significant component in various spring-time festivals such as Easter and Passover.
The word ‘equinox’ comes from a Latin term meaning ‘equal night’ - aequus (equal) and nox (night). On the day of the equinox, the length of day and night is exactly the same for the entire world. This happens due to the Earth’s axis being tilted around 23 degrees and gives the planet its seasons. After the event, the Earth’s axis tilts the northern hemisphere towards the sun, giving us longer and warmer days known and loved as the British summer. Umbrella anyone?
As well as being astrologically important, there are significant cultural and religious associations with the equinox. As with solstices, the events are celebrated all over the world. There is evidence to suggest that humans have been celebrating these astronomical events since the neolithic period - long before Christianity became dominant in the Western world. Witches, wizards and druids are familiar with the cultural and astronomical significance of the March equinox. Every year, crowds flock to Stonehenge, the 5,000 year old monument in Wiltshire, to watch the sun rise.
Rabbits and hares have been associated with spring since ancient times. The Anglo-Saxon goddess of spring, Eostre, is thought to have had a hare as her companion, which symbolised fertility and rebirth. No surprise given their ability to breed numerous litters every year ! The legend of the Easter Bunny originated in Germany, where the ‘Easter Hare’ judged whether children had been good or bad in the run-up to Easter. Over time it has become incorporated into Christian celebrations and became popular in Britain during the 19th century.
March is also important for those of us keen on astrophotography as it sees the return of the Milky Way core to the night skies of the Northern hemisphere. The core is the centre of our galaxy and is the brightest viewable section. Easily visible with the naked eye in dark sky areas, the core is the headline act of Milky Way photography and rises in the east a couple of hours after sunset. As it tracks its way across the night sky, the core rises and becomes brighter until morning twilight.
For anyone keen on learning astrophotography, the Milky Way is a great subject to start with as its easily captured in the right conditions. Look south on a clear night with no street lighting, give your eyes thirty or so minutes to adjust and you’ll be treated to the most wonderful sight imaginable. The majority of newer smart phones are capable of capturing decent images so don’t be afraid to give it a try. Here’s a map of the dark sky areas that will give you a greater chance of success : https://gostargazing.co.uk/dark-sky-sites-across-uk/
I had my first view of the Milky Way over 40 years ago in Pembrokeshire and have eagerly awaited the core’s return this year. I’m as excited as I was that first time. Clear skies for the New Moon on April 1st would give me my first opportunity to capture night images this year and I’m hoping the predicted heatwave will provide warm nights for us antisocial stargazers. I’m aiming to add a gallery of night sky images to my website later in the year so I’m keeping everything crossed for decent weather.
Wish me luck !
PERSPECTIVE
noun:
the art of representing three-dimensional objects on a two-dimensional surface so as to give the right impression of their height, width, depth, and position in relation to each other. “the theory and practice of perspective"
a particular attitude towards or way of regarding something; a point of view. “most history is written from the victor's perspective"
I’ve spent the past month ( between spells of very pants weather) working on images taken with ultra-wide lenses. In photography terms ultra-wide is defined as anything between 12mm and 16mm. It’s a style of photography that needs real care because over use in landscape photography has a detrimental effect on a view. It alters perspective.
There are, however, a number of benefits with these lenses. You can exaggerate a foreground feature in order to give it greater emphasis in a composition. This is especially useful when photographing waterfalls with a rocky stream bed or when capturing a flowering meadow with a range of mountains behind. They’re also perfect for astro photography although a very fast aperture prime will set you back well over a grand.
So I’m putting in the hours (weather permitting) to understand how best to use the perspective that an ultra-wide angle gives me. I follow a number of photographers who seem to nail this genre time after time. Me? Let’s just say I’m working at it but I’m happy with progress so far. I really like the variety it delivers and am confident it will bring an additional aspect to my landscape work but I’m trying to find a balance that achieves the “look” I want. Ultimately, I want to create better images that please me, but I also need my images to strike a chord with potential customers. A guy’s got to make a living after all !
I’ll be publishing a few of these images in the coming months so watch this space to give me a critique of my work !
It’s not all been fun this month. My drone decided it wanted to go to that great drone place in the sky (see what I did there?). With my usual impeccable timing, it didn’t happen until I’d paid to renew my drone operator’s licence for another year. The cost of a replacement drone isn’t justified at the moment as I don’t generate any income from my videos, but I’d planned to increase my output this year and then test the water with social media. Bit of Catch-22. I need a decent piece of kit with a good camera for stills and video and even second hand they can be very expensive, but the investment needs to be worthwhile. I must admit I was more than a bit naffed off, but I was very quickly given a sense of perspective.
Friends on social media recently told me of the passing of two colleagues who I had a very high regard for. Without exaggeration, they were two of the nicest people you could ever hope to meet and I had the privilege of working with both of them (albeit many years ago). When I think back to many wonderful people I knew in my previous career, they are among those whose memories make me smile. I believe you become a better person through spending time with special people such as these. They were both loved and respected in equal measure. R.I.P. Sam and Julie.
My own troubles with the drone were non-existent in comparison and got me thinking more rationally instead of consigning it to the rubbish bin. After looking at second hand models and deciding against it, I started looking for repair options. God bless YouTube for scaring me off even attempting to find the fault and then repair it. Most videos were around 40 minutes long and involved dismantling around 10 separate parts before testing the CPU. Replacement parts cost around £200 assuming you don’t do further damage with a poke and hope approach. Additionally, the global chip shortage (except if you live on Coronation Street) meant there were very few parts available in the UK. Some sketchy overseas sellers appear on a well known buy and sell website but that wasn’t for me. Having ruled out self help I needed to find someone who could do the repair for me. I posted a question on one of the South Wales photography groups and very quickly had a response from the owner of South Wales Drones. David told me he could solve the problem based on the information I was able to give him and as luck would have it, he was less than five miles from where I live. Within a week, I had a fully working drone, repaired for a very reasonable price and delivered back to me in person. David is extremely knowledgable in all things drone and video creation and I wouldn’t hesitate to ask for his help again. With my piloting skills I’m fairly sure I’ll need it ! David has an excellent website which can be used to arrange repairs, services etc but is also filled with bright shiny new kit at very competitive prices. Have a look: https://southwalesdrones.org
So there we have it. My take on what it means to me, but that’s just my perspective…..
STOP PRESS: It looks as though we may be over the worst of Storm Eunice here in South Wales as I write this, but I don’t want to speak too soon. We’re unscathed at the moment unlike some of the less fortunate souls who have suffered damage to their homes or are without electricity. I can’t remember a storm like it since the biblical event of 1987. I really want to say a big thank you to everyone who got in touch to wish us good luck and to make sure we were safe. You know who you are. I can’t thank you enough and will never forget your kindness
Winter Photography
“O, wind, if winter comes, can Spring be far behind?”
Percy Bysshe Shelley
Some may say that the only good thing about Winter is that Spring follows. Winter is apparently our least favourite season with January being the most disliked month. “Roll on Summer” they say. There’s no doubt Winter has its challenges - who likes being cold when the alternative is only a thermostat away!
For a landscape photographer it’s probably the most challenging time of year. Days are short, the weather is changeable, light is generally poor and the landscape is often bland (especially in woodland). Since my last blog, we’ve had three weeks of grey rainy days, a couple of storms and no sunlight ! That said, the last week has been sunny and cold and I’ve just returned from a fantastic day in the Forest of Dean. But as a general rule, it’s an uninspiring time of year. The stunning Autumn colours have faded, trees are bare after the recent storms, and that lovely coastal path is now a churned up bog. Motivation can be in short supply. An 05:00 alarm and a two hour drive doesn’t seem very inspiring when the car’s covered in frost by nightfall. But I have to get out, I can’t stay cooped up indoors for long, and I need to keep my fitness up.
So the challenge is to get out there and get good images.
It may sound difficult when I put it like that, but there are things you can do to swing the odds back in your favour :
Plan ahead : check the weather forecast and then check it again. When you’ve done that, check it again…..
Prepare well: Know your location. This is where scouting trips from the rest of the year pay off. You’ll know where the light is and how it effects the landscape.
Sort your kit: Have the right clothing. Gloves, hats, insulated jackets, waterproof shells, over trousers and good boots/wellies will see off most downpours.
Gear up: carry plenty of microfibre cloths to dry your camera and lenses. If you have them, take plenty of spare batteries. Cold eats camera batteries.
Start the car: Basic stuff, but making sure the car’s in good shape is vital. Who wants be stuck in the middle of nowhere on a freezing cold night. No? Me neither.
Cross everything: even the best plans go wrong, but the more you try the better your chances. As one of my best mates says “It’s better to be lucky than good!”
There is an upside to all this (I’m guessing that by now you’d be hoping there was). Sunrise and sunset are at very sociable hours in Winter - no 02:30 alarms for sunrise shoots. Additionally, many locations, including the ones that are rammed in Summer, are completely unpopulated and besides the occasional dog walker or fellow photographer (more of which later) you generally have the place to yourself. And when the days are good, well, they’re pretty special. I’ve spent today photographing frosted woodlands with a cold Winter sun providing the backdrop. I have a project to complete this year and I’m searching for the right location which will add the finishing touch, so I’ve got to keep trying even when it’s freezing outside. That’s my motivation. I’m not saying I leap out of bed (that ship sailed long ago) raring to get out there but I like having an objective to aim for.
This morning is a pretty good example of this. The Met Office (and every other weather app you can think of) showed fog covering my location. They said that yesterday as well, so a 100 mile round-trip was pretty much wasted. There’s a specific location I need to photograph in foggy conditions, so I had to try again today. I very nearly didn’t go - I’m stood there about to make my flask of coffee thinking conditions were exactly the same as yesterday. In short, I knew the outcome. Daft or dogged - I’m not sure which, but an hour later I’m parked up in the forest and there’s more chance of seeing Shergar than fog. Still, the sun’s shining and there’s hoar frost everywhere, so some macro shots of frozen leaves will make the journey worthwhile.
From here on the day got better and better. A young Robin took a liking to me and ended up perched on my camera while I was getting something out of my bag. Didn’t manage to snap him on my phone camera unfortunately but I did grab a shot when he went to investigate my camera bag. A short while later, I spy a Goldcrest less than five meters away as I’m walking around a lake. Such a small bird but so beautiful. A quick drive to another part of the forest took me to a spot where I knew the sun would appear later in the morning. There’s a slight haze to the air and when the sun rays hit it they lit the forest up. Result ! I met a fellow photographer as I was walking back to the car and we ended up chatting for over half an hour. My new acquaintance is a guy named David Barrett, a multi award winning photographer, originally for the North East but now living in the Forest of Dean area. You really should check out David’s work here : http://www.ukstreet.photography
So a great end to a day when I nearly let the challenges of Winter photography get the better of me. I really should start listening to my own advice….
After all, it may be Winter outside, but in my heart it’s…….. (you sang the last part didn’t you !)
SPACE
A number of people have remarked on the philosophical nature of some of my blogs.
They have a point. After all, at sixty-something, there’s clearly more of my life behind me than there is in front. I’m OK with that (I think….) as I firmly believe that the best time of your life is right now, so I very much live in the moment. Time spent wandering with my camera, however, gives me time to reflect on all of the good things life has given me. It’s made me who I am today and has brought me to this good place.
That said, I’m definitely not ready to be put out to grass just yet - I’ve got lots of ambitions and objectives to aim at. Retiring early and starting my photography business gives me a great opportunity to achieve them. I’m healthy and happy, and realise I’m more fortunate than lots of folks, so there are no barriers for the foreseeable.
After a very busy career I found myself craving time and space. I moved to a new part of the country just over 10 years ago and discovering new locations has given me a real sense of the space in this part of the world. Living on the edge of the Brecon Beacons National Park gives me as much space as anyone could need in a hundred lifetimes. Space brings benefits to both physical and spiritual wellbeing and allows the well documented space between my ears room to grow! The perfect scenario for a dreamer who appreciates nature and our wonderful planet.
My oldest friend tells me I’ve always been a deep thinker, so perhaps that approach comes across in my monthly observations of countryside ramblings. The real aim of my blog is to share the wonder I still feel each time I see a sunrise or sunset, or watch the changing of the seasons. I’m still that little lad following his big brother into the woods looking for frogspawn or nesting birds. We spent all day outdoors - it was a different world then. Mum had no fears about us, always saying “their bellies will bring them home.” How true. So my love of being outside has been with me all my life and I hope it never leaves me.
Looking ahead, there are ever increasing challenges to the space I enjoy so much. Urban expansion, changes to planning laws and huge environmental problems crank up the pressure on green space year on year. We’re fortunate that our National Parks and organisations such as the Woodland Trust protect many beautiful spaces, but there other less known, less publicised but equally valuable parcels of nature that need protecting as well. If the law makers can’t be made to care, then the future doesn’t look great. Climate change is impacting on nature more than ever before. As an example, Mountain Hares in Scotland are having to live at increasingly higher altitudes to find a season’s snow but there’s very little food in those habitats and their numbers are dropping alarmingly as a result.
It’s not all bad news though. Despite the loss of so much ancient woodland due to HS2, there seems to be a real will to increase forestry, particularly there in Wales, so I’m hopeful that lost habitats will be replaced and nurtured. We’re also seeing much more local action whenever environments are threatened and although not all are successful, it gives developers something to think about when selecting sites. None of them want to be dragged in to the High Court with the associated increase in costs and delays to projects. Folks don’t just lie down anymore and it proves to me that we value our open spaces more now than before the pandemic hit us nearly two years ago. It also proves that the little person has a voice and is prepared to use it.
Winter has never been my favourite season for photography. I hate the bare trees and seemingly endless grey days but we’re quickly approaching the Winter Solstice here in the northern hemisphere and the days will slowly get longer after that. Lots of opportunities to photograph frosty landscapes and foggy mornings and, fingers crossed, one or two snowy scenes before Spring arrives.
Spring - now there’s a season worth discussing. I could get quite philosophical about that ……..
I want to end by thanking everyone who has taken the time to read my blogs this year and send a special thanks to those who have been kind enough to provide feedback.
I hope everyone has a very happy and safe Christmas and that 2022 will turn out to be a lot better than the last two years !
Best wishes everyone.
LEARN TO SEE
A photographer I greatly admire recently invited me to join a private Facebook group. I’m greatly honoured. Simon Booth is someone whose work I’ve followed for some time and his knowledge of woodland and its flora and fauna are second to none in my opinion. Check out Simon’s work here: https://simonboothphotography.com
The group is called Learn To See and its aim is to share learning amongst those who wish to see the world more creatively. We’re all allowed to critique each others images in a positive way so that everyone gets the chance to learn. No point being precious about it because if someone wants to share their knowledge and skills with me, I’m always open to offers ! It’s not everyone’s cup of tea because feedback isn’t always comfortable, but I love it - I want to be a better photographer so I’m happy for someone to tell me I could have improved all or part of my image.
Which got me thinking…….
Some people are said to have a “natural eye” for a photograph - my lifelong friend Les Mcgrath is a very good example. Here’s Les’ website: http://www.platinum-photography.co.uk/ As you’ll see, he’s definitely a natural. Not me though. I have to work at it.
There’s a phrase amongst landscape photographers called “working the scene” and with woodland photography in particular, I make myself slow down and absorb the atmosphere before I start taking images. For me, it’s about allowing the mind to adjust as much as the eyes. It used to be called getting the vibe in the 70s kids ! A slower approach is hugely beneficial in not creating too much disturbance but it also allows you to pick up on the minutiae that may otherwise have been missed. I also find retracing my steps helps me to see things differently, especially when trying to capture wildflower images. That’s not to say I’ll take hours over each image, rather that I spend hours trying to find one. Once I’ve found what I’m looking for I like to keep the process relatively simple
I don’t do much wildlife photography at the moment (hopefully more next year) but a slower approach has gifted me with sightings of so many beautiful things. I’ve sat and watched young otters play in the River Usk. I’ve seen wild boar and stags in the Forest of Dean and dolphins and seals off the Pembrokeshire Coast. My favourite sightings are wild birds, particularly Kingfishers and the Ospreys at Llyn Brenig (before the mindless chainsaw attack). Only last week, I was out photographing mushrooms, and movement in the tree canopy turned out to be a Goldcrest watching me (probably wondering what an old duffer was doing lying on his belly in the middle of a forest!). An Instagram follower told me how lucky I was to witness all of these beautiful sights and, while I agree and don’t take any of the sightings for granted, I’ve learned over many years how to try and blend into my surroundings. Investing time definitely pays dividends.
The world we were all familiar with a couple of years ago changed hugely as a result of the COVID 19 pandemic and enforced lockdown deprived many people of the chance to spend time outdoors. Not being able to travel abroad has also made people think about where to spend their holidays. As a result, the British honey pot locations came under unprecedented visitor pressure and while that can be seen as detrimental, I believe there’s a positive spin-off in that people have come to appreciate the outdoors more and have surprised themselves with what’s available on their doorstep.
We’re blessed with fabulous countryside here in the UK, and through the efforts of organisations such as The Woodland Trust, The National Parks, and the National Trust, much of it will be preserved for future generations. (Quick Quiz: how many national parks are there in the UK? (no Googling). I bet you’ll be surprised if you look it up). Many people think the National Trust is only about preserving old buildings, yet a quick look at their coastal locations in Wales alone is a real eye-opener. If you’re not a member I’d strongly recommend it.
I truly value every minute spent in nature (see my blog Shinrin Yoku from July https://www.timscanlanphotography.com/blog ) and the current pressure on the earth’s environment means we must value it even more while we still can. I’ve said previously that being outdoors gives you far more back than you give to it and with the right clothing and a few hours to spare, you’d be amazed what you see. I’m a great believer that effort brings its own rewards so the more you do it, the more you’ll see.
So I aim to keep learning and, hopefully, improving. I can’t improve my eyesight but I can improve the way I see.
Wish me luck as I learn to see !
TAKE THE WEATHER WITH YOU
Landscape photography depends on many elements coming together in order to make a great image.
A beautiful location is clearly important and having great light can occasionally turn an average photo into a portfolio keeper. The clincher, however, is alluded to into the title of this blog.
WEATHER.
I’ve mentioned in previous blogs that I spend a lot of time planning shoots. Its time well spent and pays dividends more often than not. I use Google Maps and Google Earth to learn how light will effect the landscape I’ll be visiting, and always make use of my online Ordnance Survey subscription (£20 a year - well worth it !) to make sure I know which path to follow and what distance needs to be covered. I use Photographer’s Ephemeris to make sure I know sunrise/sunset times and a couple of tide timetable apps if I’m visiting the coast. All of the information gained from these sites is a given, a constant if you like, and is unlikely to change prior to my visit. It can therefore be relied on.
Which brings me to the landscape photographer’s biggest challenge. The weather - it can be your friend or your enemy and often both in one day ! Predicting the weather with consistent accuracy is like trying to pick the winning numbers on the National Lottery (rollovers not withstanding !).
At the last count, I use four different apps to try and get the best picture of what tomorrow’s weather is going to look like. I check them for days prior to a shoot and then last thing at night the evening before. I also make sure I allow time to check again before setting out ! All a bit anal you might think, but even with 40 + years experience of enjoying the great outdoors, I still don’t fully trust a weather forecast.
It’s fair to say that landscape photographers are seldom happy with the weather. It’s either too windy, too overcast, too wet, not cloudy enough, not bright enough etc etc. This past Summer, when restrictions were lifted and things like travel started to open up again, should have been a great time to get out with a camera but it was all a bit of a washout. It’s a great example of the weather deciding that too much sunshine isn’t good for us!
So what’s prompted this old man rant I hear you ask?
Firstly, it’s my favourite time of year. Leaves are starting to turn beautiful shades of gold, red and yellow and woodland photography is occupying my time. For the past week the forecast has predicted fog in my part of the world - the final photographic piece of the Autumnal jigsaw, but I’ve covered nearly 200 miles in pursuit of elusive mist and have come up empty handed. I’m not completely downhearted though as I’ve spent time in the Forest of Dean and the Brecon Beacons National Park and I’m fortunate to have captured some lovely images that I’m really happy with. But they’d have been oh so much better with a bit mist in them !!
The second rant-inducing issue is the cancellation of a break in Norfolk next week. It’s been planned for some time as I wanted to spend a few days photographing the stunning Thetford Forest in its Autumn colours. I had visions of windmills alongside the Broads on a misty sunrise or the River Little Ouse trickling through a shady oak woodland. A couple of trips to the coast were also planned. Not a chance ! Rain, rain and more rain mixed with gale force winds has scuppered all dreams of idyllic scenes leaping out at me from every corner. Imagine if it turns out to be a beautifully calm week with no wind or rain !!! Aaaarrrggghhhh !!!!
So there we are. I’ve unburdened and feel better for it. Don’t get me wrong, I have had many days when the unpredictable weather has delivered beyond my expectations so I’m not completely in the “never trust the UK weather” corner. Being one of life’s optimists I know there will be more great days to come, when the factors all slot into place for a couple of hours and I get what I’m wishing for.
As I’m writing this blog, the forecast is predicting mist on Saturday morning in one of my favourite woodland locations. No Friday night beer for me this week then as it’s a 60 mile round trip. Will it be worth the sacrifice? Watch this space but most of all wish me luck !!
And remember, “everywhere you go, always take the weather with you.”
WHEN IT ALL COMES TOGETHER !
NEVER JUDGE A BOOK ….
I climbed a hill today.
It wasn’t a big hill or a well known hill. It’s not particularly steep (although the sound of my puffing and panting would persuade me otherwise…..) and the views from the summit at 356 metres aren’t particularly spectacular.
For the record, I’ve no wish to undermine the hill’s self-esteem, but you’d drive past it to get to higher and more well known hills here in the Brecon Beacons National Park.
So why climb it? I love discovering new (to me anyway) photography locations and this place fitted the bill perfectly as it has a huge slice of history associated with it.
At its summit are the remains of an iron age hill fort and although little evidence exists, there are still significant earth ramparts that confirm the settlement’s considerable size. It’s quiet there now, but if you sit for a while you can imagine a bustling community living off the surrounding fields and forests. I had a moment when I thought of how things came to an end. Was it invaded by a rival tribe? Did the Romans or Saxons come this far? After researching the area on the internet, I can’t find any clues as to its actual age, or when it ceased to be occupied. Perhaps that’s a good thing. The ghosts that now inhabit the place can rest undisturbed.
At the edge of the surrounding woodland are the first signs of Autumn - a good mix of freshly minted mushrooms among the sessile oaks, birch and pines. This mixture of old growth and plantation woodland looks a great location for a misty Autumn morning, so I’ve logged it for a visit later in the year.
The walk back to the car takes me along the Bryn Oer Tramroad, an early 19th century horse-drawn railway. It has a fascinating history and provided an important service in its day. It runs for 8 miles from Talybont-on-Usk to Trefil, within the Brecon Beacons National Park in Wales. It was operational between 1815 and 1865 and linked the Tredegar iron works and Trefil limestone quarries to the Monmouth & Brecon canal at Talybont. Its route passes through the dramatic and scenic valleys of Talybont and Dyffryn Crawnon before reaching the uplands of Trefil mountain.
So this nondescript hill, overshadowed by its bigger, showier neighbours, has a proper tale to tell, and it’s one that I’m happy to share here. For the record, its name is Craig Danywenallt.
Just goes to show you should never judge a book by its cover.
CHASING WATERFALLS
Middle aged men should have better things to do…..
We’re extremely blessed here in South Wales when it comes to landscape photography. We have the Brecon Beacons National Park, the Glamorgan Heritage Coast and the fabulous Gower Peninsula all within reasonable travel distance. For anyone like me who’s happy to travel a bit further we have the delights of the Pembrokeshire coast a couple of hours away.
Blessed indeed……
Less than an hour away from where I live is another gem that I haven’t included in the list above because it’s worthy of a separate discussion.
Waterfall Country, as it’s known here, is located on the south-westerly edge of the Brecon Beacons National Park Here the rivers Mellte, Hepste, Pyrddin and Nedd-fechan wind their way down deep, tree-lined gorges, over a series of dramatic waterfalls, before joining to form the River Neath. This area is of international importance and it has been designated as a Special Area of Conservation (SAC) and a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI). There’s a main concentration of spectacular waterfalls around the villages of Pontneddfechan and Ystradfellte near Neath. Here you can easily access some of the most breath-taking falls you’re ever likely to see and although a careful approach is needed in wet weather, many of the walks can be enjoyed by anyone with a reasonable level of fitness. The area receives over 160,000 visitors each year.
My favourite walk, the “Four Waterfalls Walk”, can become very popular at peak times. It generally begins at either Gwaun Hepste or Cwm Porth car parks and at around 7.5 km is a good stretch of the legs. I prefer to access the walk from the small car park at Comin Y Rhos which brings you very quickly to Sgwd Uchaf Clun Gwyn (upper fall of the white meadow) and it’s not a bad opening act ! Then it’s a stroll up the valley to cross the Afon Hepste via the footbridge, keeping a close eye for trolls !! Once you’ve climbed out of the valley you follow the eastern bank to the next beauty, Sgwd Isaf Clun Gwyn (lower fall of the white meadow) and although not easily accessible, the views from above are spectacular.
A little further on you come to Sgwd Panwr (fall of the fuller), one of my favourites as it can be photographed from a number of different angles and the bonus is that it’s one of the lesser visited falls. The reason for this is it’s proximity to the star of the show Sgwd Yr Eira.
Sgwd Yr Eira (fall of the snow) is one of the most spectacular falls you’re ever likely to see. After a few days of rain (not uncommon here !) the volume of water crashing 50ft over the cliff edge creates a noise you can hear from hundreds of meters away. It’s one of the few falls here that you can walk behind if you’re brave enough. Make sure you’re wearing waterproofs though as a soaking is on the cards. I never tire of visiting this location but it’s definitely at it’s best in Autumn when the colours in the surrounding woodland add something extra to this special scene. For me, the best composition is when you’re standing in the river to catch to full force of the water in a long exposure image. A good pair of wellies are definitely needed for this. The climb back out of the valley is a bit of a pull but the steps are well maintained and it’s so worth it. You soon get your breath back if the bench at the top has space for you to sit and enjoy a well earned coffee!
I’ve frequently spent whole days doing this and other walks around here. The geology fascinates me and if you look closely enough you’ll see relics of South Wales’ industrial history. Tough terrain to work in but then they made ‘em tough in those days. It’s not just about man made relics here though. The wildlife is abundant, especially the feathered kind, and I’m often found watching dippers, tree keepers and nuthatches as they go about their business. What a fantastic way to spend a day !
Of course the popularity of Waterfall Country has its downside. People are inclined to take chances here and the Brecon Beacons Mountain rescue team are regularly called to evacuate someone who’s slipped and broken a leg through falling. Parking is also a problem, particularly at weekend and although there are plenty of car parks they soon fill up and inconsiderate roadside parking becomes a major issue. Imagine if you’re waiting for mountain rescue and they can’t get through because you’ve blocked a path with a selfish act. Oh the irony !! Erosion is another issue and the paths can become a bit sketchy during prolonged spells of rain but the National Park does a fantastic job of maintaining this huge area of land.
But if you wear appropriate outdoor clothing and footwear, act sensibly and don’t take risks, this is a playground that you, like me, can enjoy time after time. I haven’t got space here to cover a number of the other waterfall locations I visit ( like the falls from a Batman movie, and a hidden fall that requires some proper climbing ) but maybe that’s for a future blog.
In the meantime, I’ll continue chasing waterfalls.
SHINRIN YOKU - HAVE YOU HAD YOURS LATELY?
To me there is something magical about the forest.
I love the diversity of its plant and animal life and the way it can support a huge range of species. I love the fact that many forests have been around hundreds of years, maybe thousands in some cases.
Most of all I love the mystery and wonder they create. I can lose myself, spiritually and physically, for hours in these places. Time slows down, priorities change, we see things differently. So it’s no coincidence that time spent in woodland is now widely recognised as being beneficial to mental wellbeing. Shinrin Yoku (forest bathing) has long been a Japanese tradition and while it may be a fad to use the term nowadays, there is value in understanding the philosophy.
Shinrin-Yoku means taking in the forest atmosphere during a leisurely walk. It is a therapy that was developed in Japan during the 1980s, becoming a cornerstone of preventive health care and healing in Japanese medicine. Researchers, primarily in Japan and South Korea, have conducted studies on the health benefits of spending time amongst the trees, demonstrating that forest bathing positively creates calming neuro-psychological effects through changes in the nervous system, reducing the stress hormone cortisol and boosting the immune system. Every study conducted so far has demonstrated reductions in stress, anger, anxiety, depression and sleeplessness amongst the participants. In fact after just 15 minutes of forest bathing blood pressure drops, stress levels are reduced and concentration and mental clarity improve.
On a personal level, I love the solitude and peace of walking in nature, taking in the ever changing surroundings, noting the seasons come and go. I’ve done this ever since I was a boy and, God willing, hope I’ll be able to do so for some time yet. A recent encounter with a dead oak tree gave me cause to reflect on the passing of time and how we should value our own time here - all things must pass……
Walking through woodland to one of the lesser-visited waterfalls here in South Wales, I came across a huge dead oak. It had died some time ago and broken branches littered the ground all around the fallen giant. The branches had lost all their bark cover and resembled bleached bones, adding to the finality of the scene. I couldn’t just walk past and so stopped for a while (always an excuse for a coffee eh?).
My immediate thought was how old the tree had been - a long life indeed - and I tried to grasp the history that this tree had witnessed. It was probably here long before the Welsh valleys became industrialised, so somewhere in its DNA we would find evidence of the atmospheric decline brought about by coal mining, and steel production. The great collieries and steel works were amongst the largest in Europe and their environmental impact was huge. They say the rivers ran black here up until the turn of the 1950s.
Going further back, the tree may have witnessed the local Baron hunting for deer. Perhaps it gave shelter to a group of travellers. It’s certainly been home to wildlife over the years. Of course, there may be a more sinister chapter to its history. Many oak tree were used for hangings in medieval times …..
What stories it could tell of the many events it had witnessed and been involved in. All of it is stored somewhere within it’s carcass. If we only we could extract it. I hope it would tell of a life lived peacefully in beautiful surroundings and of its many offspring that scattered and grew elsewhere in the forest. I hope it died peacefully too, lying down to rest when it became too tired to stand any longer. It’s contribution won’t end here though. As it crumbles away it will provide food for insects and fungi and will enrich the forest soil.
Perhaps its not really dead - after all, forest bathing isn’t a new thing……
SHINRIN YOKU
DEATH OF A GIANT
DANCING IN THE MOONLIGHT.
It’s been a very busy few weeks in UK skies, with a month of interesting celestial activities. We’ve had a lunar eclipse, a supermoon (more of which later) and a partial solar eclipse.
I don’t claim to know much about astrophotography but it’s a branch of the art that fascinates me. It takes a great deal of planning (sometimes months ahead) to be in the right place at the right time. The best time is around the middle of the month when there’s a new moon, so the week leading up to it, when there’s a waning crescent, and the week after, when there’s a waxing crescent, give the best opportunities. All of this is of course dependent on clear skies which can be a challenge here in the valleys of South Wales but I’m lucky to be close to the Brecon Beacons National Park, one of only six dark sky reserves in the UK, so my chances are better than some. So all that planning is good but a slice of luck is needed.
I’ve spent many nights photographing the Milky Way but still need to improve hugely to get to the standard of some of my favourite photographers. Alyn Wallace here in South Wales has set the bar really high for astrophotography in the UK. Alyn has a very successful YouTube channel (https://www.youtube.com/c/AlynWallace/videos) and his website gallery is simply breath taking. He’s also a really nice guy and shares knowledge freely. You can check out Alyn’s work here:
https://alynwallacephotography.com
The second area of astro photography that fascinates me is gear (who doesn’t like new toys?) with super wide angle, fast aperture lenses being the norm for Milky Way images. A good 14mm 1.8 lens is north of £1000 but good second hand examples come on the market occasionally. If you’re planning to shoot moon images then a super zoom or prime of around 500 - 600mm is needed (that will be another grand and a bit please sir…..) The good news is that most decent digital cameras will do a very good job here so no need to splash any more cash (for the moment at least. I daren’t mention star trackers, intervalometers, light pollution filters etc etc).
Enough gear talk. The real thrill is the execution and when it all comes together it’s unbeatable. I’ll never forget photographing Comet Neowise last year - I was lucky to get two clear nights when I was able to capture it over the Beacons and will remember it for a long time. It was literally a once in many lifetimes opportunity, because it won’t come around for another 13000 years ! I wonder what the world will look like when it makes its next appearance?
Of course, it was ever thus. Humankind’s fascination with the firmament goes back millennia and looking for portents and omens was a normal part of life for centuries. Now we’re more likely to mistake the International Space Station for a shooting star. Being in a dark sky area is a revelation though and when the eyes adjust it really does look like diamonds scattered on a blanket. Interestingly enough, the camera sensor picks up many more stars than the human eye, so getting the images back home and viewing them on the computer is always special.
But this month was all about the supermoon for me. I wanted to capture an image of the moon in its surroundings, and the thought of it reflected in one of the Beacons’ reservoirs came to mind. Calm weather conditions with no breeze and a clear sky came about on May 26th and I managed two or three shots that I’m really pleased with. You can see the results below and judge for yourself whether the plan succeeded.
All this nocturnal activity doesn’t mean you have to be mad to do it, but bear in mind that the Victorians believed a full moon brought out insanity in people, hence the term lunatic.
If the cap fits…..
“I’m dancing in the moonlight. It’s caught me in its spotlight.”
I SHOULD BE COMMITTED…….
When does a hobby become a passion, and a passion become an obsession?
An 02:30 alarm may seem madness to some people but to landscape photographers it’s normal if you aim to capture sunrise at this time of year. I say “normal” but I probably mean necessary as two or three of these a week tests the resolve to the extreme.
I’m on my way to the wonderful Forest of Dean, just across the border in England. It’s an hour’s travel but seeing a pair of Roe deer on the roadside makes the journey a real treat. I was recently viewed with disdain by an elegant looking stag as I drove slowly through one of the sleeping villages a couple of hours before dawn. Some things can’t be bought.
It’s pitch black as I pull into the car park and there’s already another car there (don’t look Ethel….). I’ve got a twenty minute climb to the viewpoint so the sooner I set off the better prepared I’ll be for sunrise. Anyone else noticed how hills are getting steeper each year? I’m kept company on the walk by cuckoos and woodpeckers in the canopy and there’s a stonechat trilling away close by. Dawn chorus really is early this time of year !
My location this morning is Blaize Bailey viewpoint on a steep ridge overlooking the River Severn at Newnham in Gloucestershire. The river bends into an oxbow here and you get the full view from this location. There’s a fair amount of cloud cover this morning though, more than forecast, and there’s plenty on the horizon which may spoil sunrise, but with an hour to go you never know. It’s not long before I’m joined by another photographer, a local chap who knows this area well (so that’s who was in the car park ! Me and my overactive imagination….). We share some tips on locations in the area while we’re waiting for the light. I always prefer having a location to myself but this chap’s good company. Sunrise comes and goes though and it’s a no show this time, so my new acquaintance calls it a day as he has to get to work, but I’m going to hang on just in case….
Experience has taught me never to give up on a location until it’s clearly a bust and I’ve got it right this time. Half an hour after dawn the sun climbs above the low bank of clouds and provides spectacular light. It continues to improve for the next twenty minutes or so until it becomes too harsh. I reckon I’ve nabbed a couple of keepers this morning so I pack away feeling a bit pleased with myself. The walk back provides an opportunity to photograph bluebells and violets in the banks lining the trail, and a couple of local ladies out walking their dogs give me some great info on recent wild boar sightings. A great end to this outing and it makes the early start even more worthwhile. On my drive home I spot my first swift of the year - another harbinger of Spring and the warmer days ahead.
So my passion/obsession eventually became my profession. I put a lot into it, but I get a hell of a lot more back.
Takes commitment though…..
BLAIZE BAILEY VIEWPOINT
LONG TIME NO SEA.
The coast. It marks a beginning and an end. Neatly sums up where we are with the COVID-19 pandemic.
I’m at Sully on the South Wales coast this morning and an 04:00 alarm gets me to my chosen spot an hour before sunrise. It’s an ebbing tide this morning with low water 4 hours away. Not ideal, because it means I’ll have to shift position if I’m going to maintain a decent amount of water in my composition. I’ve got enough to work with for now though and the light is beginning to look really promising. A waning crescent moon casts beams above Steep Holm island, so a quick shot before I get fully set up makes the perfect start to the day.
I’ve got my composition sorted so it’s time for a coffee before the light show really begins. Time to reflect on how grateful I am to be able to travel again after lockdown and that there’s so much history here on the South Wales coast. The sun will be rising behind Lavernock Point, the place where Guglielmo Marconi transmitted the very first radio signal across open sea on 13 May 1897. An historic occasion indeed and, given my long career in telecommunications, I’m pleased to be so near to this special location.
Back to the job in hand, and we’re well into pre-dawn now and the plan is definitely coming together. I spent a couple of hours picking this exact location so that the sun rises behind the point and lights the bay. Any later in the year and the sun will be rising too far north to fit into the composition. So it’s not down to chance, but you still need a lot of luck, especially when checking weather forecasts and tide times, as you still need a few other factors to marry if you’re going to get a truly great shot. The cloud cover today is perfect - all high clouds (as forecast) so I’m hoping they light up just before the sun clears the horizon.
I’m in luck. It’s a fantastic sunrise with red and orange clouds reflecting the golden light. It’s one of those mornings when you just have to stop and take it all in. A photographer’s gift. A quick change of tripod position gets me the composition I’d had in mind and it’s not long before the light gets too harsh and it’s time to pack away. It’s just a short walk back to the car across a rocky fore shore, and it’s good to see that staff are busy getting pubs ready for limited opening. The Captain’s Wife looks very tempting but it’s far too early (even for me) although it looks the ideal pub for a late spring evening, sitting watching the sun set.
So there we are. A couple of hours planning and an hours drove for 20 minutes of photography but what a reward I got.
A beginning and an end - the beginning of more freedom and an end in sight to this terrible pandemic.
BACK TO NATURE
Hello forest. It’s been a while. Three months to be exact…..
The end of lockdown is in sight here in Wales. Since March 13th we’re allowed to travel up to five miles and at the end of the next review, in three weeks, it looks like we can travel anywhere in the country. It’s the light at the end of a very dark Winter.
Monday March 15th was my first opportunity to get out with the camera, so the natural choice for me was my local forest to look for signs of Spring. Here in the higher Welsh valleys Spring comes late, so I knew there wouldn’t be acres of snowdrops and daffs but I was hoping for some buds on trees and the occasional bird’s nest under construction.
When you haven’t done something for a quarter of a year, things don’t immediately come naturally (insert your own jokes here…) so after making a flask of hot, sweet coffee and throwing the camera bag in the car, I made the short drive to the forest wondering if we ever lose our connection with nature or just need to re-kindle it on a regular basis. Three months of not walking with a heavy camera back pack, three months of not pulling on over-trousers and wellies. It all felt a bit awkward to be honest, but I hoped I’d soon get into my stride, lack of stamina permitting. I think I knew the answer to the nature connection puzzle but it occupied my thoughts as I set off.
There would be no epic sunrise, too much cloud for that, but the rain had stayed away for a change and the wind had dropped to a whisper. Being in the forest as dawn breaks is one of my favourite things, a time to slow down and relish the solitude, while listening to birds filling the canopy with song. It was Autumn when I was last here and the trees were in full golden leaf then. Not so today. It all looks a bit dull and flat at first sight but there’s beauty hidden everywhere if you look long enough.
A part of me hoped nothing had changed, but nature doesn’t work like that. It’s too busy managing the seasons to hang around for humans to return. So that part of me hoped that the pause in human activity had given the land time to reclaim the paths and hedges and drystone walls. There are no upland sheep in this area so all the tracks are made by foxes and badgers, narrow but obvious when you know what to look for. They’re kind enough to leave me the occasional paw print so I know they’re still about. There’s a pretty substantial sett in there but I skirt it so as not to disturb the locals.
After a couple of miles I stop for a coffee. OK, I stop to catch my breath - my fitness has suffered during lockdown and there’s lard to shed in the coming weeks! There’s a spot I like to find where the forest borders open land and on a broken branch there are clear signs the Barn Owl is still roosting there, waiting for prey to show themselves. As I enjoy my coffee I try to picture him swooping down from the canopy, bringing death on the wing for some small unfortunate mouse or vole. The pellets at the tree’s base contain evidence of recent success. I’ll be back with the long lens later in the year, when I hope he’ll pose for a couple of portraits for me.
The eastern side of the valley is being logged at the moment. I hate it, but understand that this forest wouldn’t be here if lumber wasn’t valuable and the truth is commercial plantations provide much-needed jobs. The landscape is scarred though and the presence of machinery just feels wrong. I won’t cross the valley today - there’s no beauty there while all this is going on.
After a couple of hours I’m still looking for signs of Spring. Even the beautiful silver birches in the old growth areas haven’t revealed any catkins yet. The pine carpet in the plantation may be easy on the feet but it’s not a great bed for woodland flowers. I’ve never seen snowdrops here, although there’ll be daffs near the car park soon and we can expect some lesser celandine later on in the year. No, this forest is a haven for mushrooms come Autumn, one of the best I know, so let’s allow it to play to its strengths.
The breeze is picking up now so it’s time to head home. I’m an hour from the car but it’s a fabulous walk with only a slight incline (thank goodness). Oh, and in case you’re wondering, the camera never came out of the bag but that’s for another day.
Today is about breathing it all in and re-connecting.
Goodbye for now forest. Great to see you again. I’ll be back soon (I promise).